Carlos Julião e o traje histórico: Análise da moda masculina das elites coloniais no Brasil do século XVIII

Abstract

This work aims to analyze a watercolor figure painted by Carlos Julião, an artist who portrayed the daily life in the colonies of Portugal. The work aims to verify the influence of European fashion in the male clothing depicted in Figure XXIII, in the period of colonial Brazil. The work discusses how the history of fashion in Brazil relates to the elite man of the Portuguese colony in colonial lands, also considers that fashion goes far beyond genders and the relationship between the South American continent and the European. The research intends to open up a possibility to unveil a little of the history of men's clothing, from a period when there is no academic production on the subject, and, thus, go back to the past and look at the history of fashion in the South American continent. The work brings up a discussion on the colonial fashion of Brazilian elites, which opens up a range of possibilities for studies on the social classes that shared the soil of colonial Brazil. The methodology used was the documentary and bibliographic research, the grid of analysis by Gervereau (2007) was used in a partial way looking for an analytical methodology that was exclusively focused on Figure XXIII painted by Carlos Julião. In the results, similarities were found between men's clothing used in Brazil, colony and Europe. From the design to the making of the costume, possibly such clothing, it was not idealized or made on colonial soil. The analysis made in Figure XXIII is also considered that the suit had elements that can serve as a parameter to verify some types of comforts, important as relevant to fashion, psycho aesthetic comfort, ergonomic and thermophysiological comfort. The work will contribute to the academic community by addressing restrictive political reasons that fell on 18th century male attire in colony Brazil and Europe, when the attire belonged to a man who was part of the elite, however, it does not address cultural plurality and racial that were also part of the colony and influenced other social strata.