O saber fazer dos queijos de leite cru na Fazenda Barrocas (Quixeramobim, CE) como instrumento de preservação de memória

Abstract

Cheese production in Brazil dates back to the Portuguese colonizers and the first milk-producing females such as cows, goats, and sheep. Livestock farming served more as an adjunct to the sugarcane and mining cycles, and cattle raising was pushed inland, as the animals occupied large areas and invaded sugarcane fields in search of food. Coalho cheese is produced throughout the Northeast and in Ceará, where it is representative of the culture

food, traditions, and gastronomy. In its original composition, coalho cheese contained raw milk, rennet (always animal rennet), and salt, and was an essential food in the diet of the sertanejo (inhabitant of the sertão region). The rennet used today is almost always industrial, as required by law, due to food safety. With the use of milk pasteurization for cheese production, lactic acid bacteria (LAB) are lost in the process and cause a loss of flavor. However, many traditional cheese dairies continue to produce their cheeses from raw milk. This maintains tradition and signifies a revival, preservation of cherished memories, and a guarantee of more complex flavors. Demand has increased for this type of cheese, with improved sanitary practices, legislative support, and consumers seeking more natural products. Brazilian legislation has kept pace with these changes in demand, under pressure from producers and scholars, and in Ceará, state law no. 17,318, of October 13, 2020, regulated the production and marketing of artisanal cheeses and butters in the state. This favored the small artisanal producer, their expertise in the production process, and valued the so-called terroir of the place. The object of this research is the record of the artisanal production of raw milk curd cheeses (fresh and matured) produced at Fazenda Barrocas, in Quixeramobim-CE, and its importance for the recovery of the producer's family memory, in addition to the preservation of traditional knowledge with a touch of innovation. The methodology used was exploratory, through a case study with a technical visit and interviews with the producer, bibliographic research on academic research websites and in general, as well as books on the subject. It was possible to follow the production and the main challenges faced by the producer, who already has the Municipal Inspection Seal – SIM and aims to obtain the Arte seal. Microbiological analyses were performed on samples of some of the cheeses at the Food Microbiology Laboratory - LMA/UFC. The results of these analyses will help the producer in case of corrections in the production process. Through this case study, it is concluded that the preservation and rescue of the food culture related to the production of raw milk cheeses is extremely important for the producer and his family, and also for the possibility of maintaining the cheesemaking tradition of this region, which has guaranteed recognition in several competitions, for the producer and his artisanal products.