Desenvolvimento de fitocosmético antioxidante a partir de extrato padronizado do coco (Cocos nucifera): um estudo comparativo entre as variedades amarela e verde

Abstract

Cocos nucifera L. (Arecaceae), a fruit palm, popularly known as coconut, used in various industrial sectors, from agricultural to cosmetic. Studies have demonstrated the antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities of coconut water (liquid albumen) and / or plant extracts. In recent years our group has invested unprecedentedly in technological and biological research on a residue (fibers / mesocarp) of coconut agroindustry, which has difficult decomposition in nature. In view of the above, the objective of the present study was to develop a phytocosmetic standardized antioxidant for facial use from coconut fiber (Cocos nucifera), investigating the two plant varieties. Initially it was optimized and validated spectrophotometric method for analyzes of total phenols in coconut extracts. The liquid extracts of the two varieties (yellow and green) of C. nucifera were produced by maceration associated or not to turbolysis, using 7% vegetable drug: solvent ratio. Among the extracts produced from the two coconut varieties, the yellow coconut hydroalcoholic extract (EHACNA) produced by maceration 24h associated with 10 min turbolysis showed the best results regarding the total phenol content - FT (5,20 ± 0.1 mg / mL), total solids (16.72 ± 0.04 mg / mL) and DPPH (89% inhibition of the radical). Then this extract was used in the development of the dry extract by spray-dryer with the aid of factorial planning. The dry extract of the yellow coconut showed an average content of total phenol content of 29.36% and the analysis by scanning electron microscopy revealed that it has spherical and uniform particles. Chromatographic analysis (CLAE-DAD) of the dry extract determined its fingerprint, besides the contents of three bioactive phenols, chlorogenic acid - ACLOR (0.16%); catechin - CAT (0.29%) and epicatechin - EPI (0.19%). The dry extract produced was incorporated into the peel off facial mask formulation, which was stable (evaluation period: 21 days, temperatures 27 and 45 ° C), maintaining its color, odor, appearance and pH. The face mask showed scavenging activity of DPPH (50 mg / mL - 86% reduction) and superoxide anion (50 / mL - 44.3% reduction), which were comparable to vitamin C, antioxidant standard (89% and 52%, respectively). The study showed, unprecedentedly, that the liquid extract of the yellow coconut has physical-chemical characteristics of greater interest for the development of cosmetics in relation to the green coconut. The yellow coconut dry extract showed technological properties of interest, in addition to antioxidant activity, thus giving a concrete cosmetic application of the facial mask peel off the yellow coconut.